Ralf Dujmovits
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Ralf Dujmovits (born 5 December 1961) is a German mountaineer. In May 2009 he became the 16th person, and the first German, to climb the 14
eight-thousander The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) recognises eight-thousanders as the 14 mountains that are more than in height above sea level, and are considered to be sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no ...
s.


Early life

Dujmovits was born in 1961 in Bühl, Baden-Württemberg. After completing his
Abitur ''Abitur'' (), often shortened colloquially to ''Abi'', is a qualification granted at the end of secondary education in Germany. It is conferred on students who pass their final exams at the end of ISCED 3, usually after twelve or thirteen year ...
(final school exams) in 1981 he spent a year traveling around South America and climbing in the Andes before commencing his degree in medicine at the University of Heidelberg. He left the university after eight semesters and in 1985 began his training to become a certified mountain guide instead.


Career

Dujmovits' mountaineering career began with the
German Alpine Club The German Alpine Club (german: links=no, Deutscher Alpenverein, DAV for short) is the world's largest climbing association and the eighth-largest sporting association in Germany. It is a member of the German Olympic Sports Confederation and the ...
, where he worked as a guide and led clients on international expeditions including highest mountains on six of the seven continents. He also climbed extensively in the Alps, with and without clients, making successful ascents of the Matterhorn, the
Eiger The Eiger () is a mountain of the Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen in the Bernese Oberland of Switzerland, just north of the main watershed and border with Valais. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends a ...
, Mont Blanc, the Grosshorn, Les Courtes, Laliderer, the
Reissend Nollen The Reissend Nollen is a mountain peak of the Urner Alps, located on the border between the Swiss cantons of Obwalden and Bern. It lies on the range west of the Titlis, between Engelberg and Gadmen Gadmen is a former municipality in the Inte ...
, and peaks in the Engelhorn Range. In 1989, he left the German Alpine Club to start up his own trekking outfitter, Amical Alpin. Dujmovits began climbing in the Himalaya and Karakorum in the 1990s, starting with successful ascents of
Dhaulagiri I Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country (Nepal). It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition. Annapurna I () is ...
(1990), Mount Everest (1992), K2 (1994),
Cho Oyu __NOTOC__ Cho Oyu (Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the ''Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur ...
(1995), and Shisha Pangma (1997). He began to attract attention from the wider public in 1999, when his climb of the
Eiger The Eiger () is a mountain of the Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen in the Bernese Oberland of Switzerland, just north of the main watershed and border with Valais. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends a ...
's north wall in Switzerland was publicized as a 33-hour-long live television broadcast. Dujmovits went on to summit Broad Peak (1999) and Gasherbrum II (2000), but it was not until he climbed Nanga Parbat in 2001 that he decided to attempt to climb all fourteen mountains in the world higher than 8000 metres (" eight-thousanders"). In 2004, he climbed Annapurna I and Gasherbrum I within a two-month period, followed by ascents of Shisha Pangma (2005), Kangchenjunga (2006), Manaslu (2007), Broad Peak (2007), and Makalu (2008). On 20 May 2009, Dujmovits climbed Lhotse—his final 8000-metre peak—with his former wife Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Hirotaka Takeuchi and David Göttler. This made Dujmovits the 16th person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders, and the first German person to do so. Dujmovits returned to Mount Everest in 2012 for the sixth time, attempting to climb it without
bottled oxygen Bottled oxygen is oxygen in small, portable, high pressure storage cylinders, as used for high-altitude climbing. Bottled oxygen may also be for a breathing gas, especially for scuba diving or during surgery. (see also diving cylinder and oxygen ...
(Mount Everest is the only eight-thousander he has not climbed without bottled oxygen). Although he did not reach the summit, while he was descending he took a photo of a long queue of climbers queuing to ascend the mountain; the photo subsequently went viral and was described by ''
Outside Outside or Outsides may refer to: General * Wilderness * Outside (Alaska), any non-Alaska location, as referred to by Alaskans Books and magazines * ''Outside'', a book by Marguerite Duras * ''Outside'' (magazine), an outdoors magazine Film, th ...
'' magazine as "the year's most iconic photo" and "the image that embodied a disastrous year on Everest". In 2014, he and Darek Zaluski attempted to make the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, but abandoned the expedition, citing dangerous conditions. Dujmovits has made more than 40 mountaineering expeditions in the Himalaya and Karakorum. In addition to climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, he has completed the Seven Summits challenge, which involves climbing the highest mountains on each continent.


Personal life

Dujmovits lives in the Black Forest, Germany. In 2007, Dujmovits married his mountaineering partner Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, from whom he later divorced.


References


External links


Official website
(German) {{DEFAULTSORT:Dujmovits, Ralf Summiters of all 14 eight-thousanders Summiters of the Seven Summits 1961 births Living people German mountain climbers Sportspeople from Karlsruhe (region) People from Bühl (Baden) Summiters of K2